Environmental Hygienist Phillip Fry announces the sixteen steps necessary for the safe removal and decontamination of basement mold growth in the USA, Canada, UK, Europe, Asia, and Australia.
Montrose, MI, May 01, 2015 — “Basement mold infestation is a frequent problem in residences, commercial buildings, and workplaces in the USA, Canada, UK, Europe, Asia, and Australia because of water seeping through basement walls and foundations, water wicking upward through concrete floors from the wet ground below, plumbing leaks, and/or inadequate basement ventilation,” notes Phillip Fry, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Professional Industrial Hygienist, author of five mold books, and webmaster since 1999 of the frequently-visited educational website www.moldinspector.com.
Fry recommends that the following Upkeep Masters, LLC, proven 16 steps be taken for the safe and effective removal of basement mold infestations—
1. Use a moisture meter and infrared video camera scan to determine locations of water seeping through walls and foundations, water wicking upward from concrete floors, and pipe leaks.
2. Do effective waterproofing and plumbing repairs to correct all water intrusion problems found in step one above.
3. Increase basement ventilation with a wall-mounted, humidstat-controlled electric exhaust fan that turns on automatically to exhaust humid attic air outward whenever the basement humidity hits a humidstat setting such as 50 to 60% humidity. Alternately, use one or more programmable dehumidifiers set to turn on and run at 50 to 60% humidity to remove humidity from the basement air.
4. All basement mold inspection, testing, and removal workers must wear at all times in the attic the following personal protective equipment: respirator mask with filters rated to collect volatile organic compounds, eye goggles with no holes (“Chem-Splash” type), disposable vinyl gloves, and Tyvek or comparable enviro body suits with built in park hoods and booties.
5. Take mold test surface samplings of the worst basement mold growth, as well as of the basement air and the outward air flow from basement heating/cooling duct registers, to serve as a comparison benchmark later after mold removal when clearance tests are done in the basement to determine how successfully and totally the mold has been removed.
6. Seal off the basement area from the rest of the house or building with an entry and exit chamber or room made of 6 mil thick, clear plastic sheeting, with a zippered entrance cut and taped into the plastic sheeting. The sheeting must be tight wall to wall and floor to ceiling.
7. Do an initial kill of as much basement mold as possible by running high output ozone generators for eight hours in the basement. Learn about the mold-killing effectiveness of ozone blasters at www.ozonegeneratorkillsmold.com.
8. After this initial ozone treatment, remove ALL basement personal contents (except washer and dryer) to the outdoors for owner-sorting, disposal of less valuable items, and mold decontamination of items to be kept by treating the contents in an outdoor decontamination chamber, utilizing decontamination procedures established by an industrial hygienist or environmental hygienist service company such as EnviroFry Upkeep Masters, LLC, whose websites are www.upkeepmasters.com and www.moldexpertconsultants.com.
9. During the basement mold removal process, maintain negative air pressure inside the basement by connecting one or more industrial-sized air scrubbers in the basement with flexible hosing to the outdoors. Air scrubbers use large, thick HEPA filters to remove airborne mold spores and activated carbon filters to remove airborne mold mycotoxins (poisonous, volatile organic compound gases thrown into the air during toxic mold growth). Air scrubbers remove over 99% of airborne mold spores and mycotoxins, with the scrubber output directly vented by more flexible hosing to the outdoors. Negative air pressure makes the entire basement into a giant vacuum cleaner by continually removing more basement air than is coming into the basement.
10. HEPA vacuum all basement ceilings, walls, and floors, to remove as much landed dirt and mold spores as possible.
11. Use high pressure abrasive blasting or grinders with wire brush attachments to remove all surface mold growth from wood and concrete/masonry surfaces to make the cleaned surfaces visibly mold-free.
12. Do a second HEPA vacuuming of all basement surfaces as well as vacuuming up the removed mold spores and wood debris now resting on the basement floor as the result of the abrasive mold removal step described above.
13. Follow up with a second eight hour high output ozone gas treatment.
14. After the second ozone treatment, fog an EPA-registered fungicide throughout the entire basement as an additional mold-killing step.
15. After the fungicidal fogging, spray all basement wood surfaces with a see-through clear, EPA-registered anti-microbial, encapsulation coating to help prevent future mold growth. Don’t use a white or black coating that would hide future mold growth or mold not properly removed in the current mold removal project.
16. Take surface samples from the cleaned wood plus basement air samples for lab analysis to compare the levels of mold after mold remediation with the mold levels existing before the project. If mold levels are still high, repeat one or more of the above steps so that the basement finally tests as mold-safe.
To get an EnviroFry Upkeep Masters, LLC, bid to remove mold growth anywhere in a house or business building in Midwestern, Eastern, and Southern USA, email mold consultant Phillip Fry email@example.com, or phone toll-free 866-300-1616 or cell 480-310-7970, or visit website: www.moldexpertconsultants.com.
Phillip Fry, Vice President
EnviroFry’s Upkeep Masters, LLC
10104 Sheridan Rd.,
Montrose, MI 48457
Phone Toll-Free 866-300-1616